Wednesday, September 5, 2018

DIY Overland Drawer Nylon Strap Handles

Just a quick vid on the nylon strap handles that I added to the drawers so I could get the wings open from the back of the vehicle. Coyote brown to match everything of course


Securing Overland Cargo on our DIY Drawers

After finishing up the Land Cruiser overland off-road drawer build we had to decide on a method to secure cargo on top of the drawer. We thought about using D-rings in the corners or three on each side and a row in the middle but we all know as your cargo load changes the set locations tend to not be ideal. We decided to use Steadymate L-track from US Cargo Control to give us maximum securing flexibility. There are three main types of L-track, standard, angled, and recessed mount. Standard is nice because it comes in several powder coated colors. It is also slightly narrower than the angled track making it ideal when you have tight space considerations. Recessed is nice because everything could be flush mounted to the drawers. I would have preferred the recessed mount but was worried about weakening the top of the drawers due to the required mounting depth and I was also concerned that if I wanted to move or change things in the future that would no longer be an option. Angled I chose angled since it seemed it would be easier to drag gear over. End Caps We also installed end caps to ensure no snagging on the ends of the track. D-Rings There are many styles of tie down accessories these are the ones we chose to to the rubberized coating and look. They hold a little less than the all metal options but hold way more than we will ever secure on the drawers.

Land Cruiser 100 Series DIY Off-Road 4x4 Drawer Build Final Walkaround

Here is our overland drawer playlist.  This was out first big project on the the land cruiser and it turned out great.  Below you will find details on the process we went through and links to most of the products we used.


Overland Drawers are a great way to get your gear organized and to be sure you can get to key items when you need to without having to unload you entire vehicle.  If you have every been camping and realized you needed a tool bag somewhere at the bottom of the pile it can be a real pain and before you know it the entire back of the vehicle is a mess.  The most experienced overlanders have a place for everything and everything is independently accessible.  We considered many alternatives like ARB outback solutions drawers but had some unique plans and ideas.  Ultimately a DIY build saved us about $1000 and was a lot of fun spending time with the family. Here is a look at the finished product. When this was filmed we had still not zeroed in on how we wanted to secure cargo so that is in the next video.


Some of the things we user on this project

Overland Drawer Build Wings, Trim, and Door Fronts

Wings, Trim, and Door Fronts

The primary frame for the drawers is just a big box.  To make things fit flush there are a number of pieces that must be cut to trim things out.  One wing on each side, one trim piece to cover the extra vertical space by the tail gate, and fronts for the drawers to cover the slides and gaps between the drawer and frame. We show how to use a simple diy scribe to make a template for each piece and how we attached each to the main frame.

DIY Overland 4x4 Drawer Build Moment of Truth Screw and Glue

Today was a big day for the overland drawer build. We glued and screwed the main cabinet together. There is no turning back now! We spent a lot of time ensuring that the vertical pieces were positioned perfectly for the best possible operation of the slides.

Mounting the overland drawer slides

First we installed inserts to mount the ryadon slides. The 4wd off-road drawers are coming along for the land cruiser. We will be filling the drawers up and getting out on our favorite overland trails in no time.

Then we test mounted the ryadon slides and checked out the locking mechanism after installing our ezlok inserts. The 4wd off-road drawers are coming along for the land cruiser 100. We will be filling the drawers up and getting out on our favorite overland trails in no time.
Here is a link to the slides on amazon https://amzn.to/2IQyXD5 and to the inserts https://amzn.to/2IR5EQS https://amzn.to/2pG4cYx

In this video the slides are attached, the boards are primed, painted, and ready for monstaliner, next step is to screw and glue everything. You also will notice the hatches that were added to the build.

Project Hundy DIY Drawer Build Materials

This video goes through all the key materials we are using for our off road drawer build in the back of the 100 series land cruiser. We have ryadon locking 500lb slides, ez-lok inserts, monstaliner, rustoleum primer and camo paint, bolts, screws, an amazon .5 cu foot safe, some specialty drill bits and more. We chose these over arb outback solutions drawers so that we could customize all out features and save a grand. These drawers are going to support our overland adventures!


and here are links to the materials

100 Series Land Cruiser DIY Overland Drawer Build Day 2

We spent day two finishing the remaining cuts for the drawers. Then we dry fit the drawer pieces and then set off to dry fit the case with the drawers inside and position everything in the land cruiser. We paid special attention to the height and depth of the drawers to ensure things would work as expected when installed and it all looked great. In the video you can see the areas that are planned for electrical distribution components and a safe to store any valuables we may be traveling with. One big thing to check during the dry fit was if the drawers were going to clear the tailgate. The tailgate angles up slightly and requires the drawers to be elevated from the interior floor. We have the case elevated on 3/4" slats but will likely end up using 1/2" to keep the case as low as possible while still clearing the tailgate. Day 1 notes below: We got further on day one than I could have expected. We nearly cut all the 3/4" birch plywood boards needed for assembly. Cut all of the dados and things were coming together pretty good. We spent a ton of time up front trying to decide on how to attach the drawers to the land cruiser. Considering turnbuckles to the D-rings and U-bolts we ultimately decided to settle on bolting directly to the third row seat mounts. We also spent a good amount of time deciding on how tall the drawers would be based on the height of the folded seats, the safe dimensions, etc. Everything started coming together once we had the base cut. Then it was all about precision. We wanted to be sure everything we tight and square and that means measure 20 times and cut once. Setting the saws and ensuring the precision of our pencil lines were key. It also helped that my dad and I would question and double check each other’s work. In the end it looks like it is going to be a pretty solid set of off road 4x4 DIY drawers. I am anxious to see how the will hold up to the trial and the long term and hoping the cabinet making techniques help. Project hundy (100 series land cruiser) is off and running and this is the first major upgrade / modification that will serve as the base for getting the electronics setup which will lead to other major upgrades so keep looking out for new videos.

100 Series Land Cruiser DIY Overland Drawer Build Day 1

We got further on day one than I could have expected. We nearly cut all the 3/4" birch plywood boards needed for assembly. Cut all of the dados and things were coming together pretty good. We spent a ton of time up front trying to decide on how to attach the drawers to the land cruiser. Considering turnbuckles to the D-rings and U-bolts we ultimately decided to settle on bolting directly to the third row seat mounts. We also spent a good amount of time deciding on how tall the drawers would be based on the height of the folded seats, the safe dimensions, etc. Everything started coming together once we had the base cut. Then it was all about precision. We wanted to be sure everything we tight and square and that means measure 20 times and cut once. Setting the saws and ensuring the precision of our pencil lines were key. It also helped that my dad and I would question and double check each other’s work. In the end it looks like it is going to be a pretty solid set of off road 4x4 DIY drawers. I am anxious to see how the will hold up to the trial and the long term and hoping the cabinet making techniques help. Project hundy (100 series land cruiser) is off and running and this is the first major upgrade / modification that will serve as the base for getting the electronics setup which will lead to other major upgrades so keep looking out for new videos.

Land Cruiser 100 Tailgate Cover

One glaring weakness of the Land Cruiser 100 series is the tailgate cover.  We absolutely love having the tailgate but for some reason Toyota chose to cover it in carpet backed by thin fiber board.  If you are doing anything beyond keeping your cruiser in the garage then you are bound to get mud and at a minimum rain on the tailgate.  This quickly makes the carpet look terrible and slowly erodes the fiber board backing. Eventually the backing won’t hold to the retaining clips if you can stand the condition of the carpet that long.  There are a number of small companies out they that make everything from aluminum covers that include storage doors to simple cutting board style covers to linexed covers.  We were part way through the construction of our off road storage drawers when we recognized that if we had a board ready to go we could coat it with monstaliner at the same time that we coat the drawers. 
We decided to go with ½” pine sheathing for the wood.  This is cheap wood and would have preferred to use ½” birch to ensure a smooth finish but that was not available. 
  1. First we traced the outline of the carpeted cover on the plywood and cut out the board. 
  2. Second we used a router to round the edge of the board.
  3. We developed a template for the holes in the board using standard poster board.  We place the carpet cover on top of the poster board bottom up and used a punch to mark approximate hole locations based on the locations of the clips.  This got us within a sixtennth of an inch between holes.  We knew we needed these holes to be precise for the fasteners to work properly.  To get them very precise we fine tuned the punch markes with exact measurements between the holes working from hole to hole, starting in the middle and moving to the sides measuring the tail gate and then transferring to the poster board.  The last few on each side were done triangulating between two other holes.  
  4. Following that we drilled 5/16” holes at each location on the poster board and verified accuracy of the placement.  There were a few holes that were off slightly.  We covered those holes with duct tape and used a punch to mark the exact location with a punch while in position on the tail gate.
  5. We used the template to drill holes by first counter sinking with a 3/8” spade bit  to accommodate the screw head and washer and following with a XXX” bit for the screw. 
  6. Following the hole prep for the fasteners we coated the board with monstaliner
  7. The board is attached using well nuts that are 5/16” wide (Amazon link below).  It is necessary to place small washers on top of the well nut to shim it up to the board due to recesses in the the tailgate.  This ensures the well nut is fully seated in the hole and gives the maximum hold.  We applied a small amount of lock tite and placed each screw through the hole in the board with one washer on the top and the number necessary to properly shim we started a couple threads on each well nut and then aligned them to each hole in the tail gate.  Then we tightened each screw until firm but not too tight.

The plywood was $16 and we only used half.  The screws and washers were about $8.  The well nuts came in a pack of 25 and were $19 but glad we have the spares.  The tinted monstaliner was about $150 for a gallon and we used about half of that for the drawers and the tailgate cover took maybe 12-20% of the liner we mixed, so if I had to guess maybe $15 worth of monstaliner.  Of course you only get that deal if you have another project for the liner.  Cost was $43 plus $15 for the liner for a total of $58 with enough wood to make the next one.  Considering many of the replacements you can buy are in the 300-$500 range I think this is one hell of a deal and definitely worth the labor.

Overland Fridge Install Walkaround

Here is the full walk around of our overland fridge and tilt slide.

We got a great deal from ok4wd.com on the complete package and it works great.

For our dual battery system equipment check out those videos here, they have links in the descriptions as well:

You can see links to all the equipment we used in our previous blog posts.


Picking a Roof Rack for Our Overland Rig

This is the first in a series of picking, installing, and equipping a roof rack for our overland travels.

A roof rack can say a lot about your overland rig.  We spent a lot of effort picking a roof rack.  A lot of time was spent considering the weight of the rack, the rack’s capacity, how cool it looked, how easy it would be to mount our gear, if the cruiser would still fit in the garage, etc.  Ultimately the main contenders were the gamiviti, dissent offroad, and frontrunner outfitters.  We chose the front runner due to the available mounts for the alu-cab shadow awn and got everything from the extremely helpful guys at ok4wd.com.  We love the t-slot mounting system. Keep an eye out for our upcoming install videos and full walk around of the completed install.

Here's a few great question we got concerning our choice.

1. I'm looking at a rhino rack for my 4runner. Not sure if there is any advantage/disadvantage over the front runner but they sure do look similar to each other?

Yeah they do. I just went back and looked at rhino and remember some of the things that steered me away. On big difference is the main slates run front to back. I think this reduces the wind noise but then there are cross braces since it is to far a span to support much weight. I wonder if this design was to keep from infringing on frontrunner but can't be sure. The weight capacity on their site says 260lbs, I couldn't get an answer as to whether this was dynamic or static load. The frontrunner static load is 660lbs. But the main thing that steered me away was the slots themselves. Now I have never inspected a rhino in person but the slots look to be thinner and wider. Their accessories mount with a rectangular tab that slides in the slot. Frontrunner accessories mount with standard 13mm bolts. That means you can easily make your own stuff which is what I have done and will post some video on that at some point soon. I have made my own table mount, maxx track mount, and built my own eye bolts. Here is an example, A baja rack eye bolt set of 2 is $20 and you can see the tab I am talking about, http://www.rhinorack.com/en-us/products/straps-accessory-holders/load-securing/eye-bolts The same eye bolts from frontrunner using the 13mm bolt is $11 for set of two http://www.rhinorack.com/en-us/products/straps-accessory-holders/load-securing/eye-bolts If you have a frontrunner you can make your own by ordering your own bolts, washers, and eye bolts. Basically cost $2.50 each so half the price of frontrunner and 75% off the rhino rack price. I got the bolts and washers from boltdepot.com and eye bolts from amazon here https://amzn.to/2Nad1Yy I did 10 at first and liked them so much now I have 30 which is probably over kill:-) I do not know for sure if there is some standard bold that will fit the rhino slot but it doesn't look like it. I hope that helps! Thanks for checking us out!

2. How's the wind noise when unloaded? I like to use the sunroof in the pop up mode on the 100 during daily drives.

The wind noise is not bad, no whistling or anything like that, but not 0. The wind deflectors divert air from the front to the sides. Apparently this was a very noisy rack prior to those being added. Occasionally cross winds will produce a little extra noise but still not that bad. A week after I installed it I put on an awning so it creates all the noise I notice at this point. Now when it's loaded it's a different story. I currently have maxx tracs mounted across the front and they make a little extra noise that is very apparent when the sunroof is open.

2. Since you mentioned your sunroof, did you end up covering it up? I have a 100 series and have contemplated using a 3/4 length size. What size did you pick? Thanks for the videos!

I was contemplating not covering the sonroof. In the end I decided more rack was more important to me.  I was pretty set on a gamiviti and was thinking of going with the sunroof cutout.  I think now they even have a panel to cover it too.    I expect I will eventually put a roof top tent up there and would still like to have some room for gear. The standard full length frontrunner rack is 77.3" and I ended up getting a custom one that is actually a tiny bit longer than 85", one additional slat.  I am going to cover this in some upcoming videos.  The sales guy at ok4wd discussed this option with me since he had it on his 100.  Standard rack goes to end of rails and mine goes a little further to cover the whole roof.  He advised not to stand out on that end but plenty strong for anything I might set up there.


Monday, August 27, 2018

Is the Liberrway really a 11K Receiver Shackle?

Nope it's not! The Liberrway product marketing is misleading.  This is a fine product and comparable to smittybuilt or other economical receiver hitch shackles but this one claims more capacity.  In the end the shackle itself is 9500lbs so that is ultimately the capacity.  I still like the product and it's $27 vs $34 for the smittybuilt.  So even though I hate the marketing bull I'd probably still go for the $7 savings.

Here is a link to the liberrway

and here is a comparable smittybuilt version


and here is a link to our overview on youtube

coming soon!

Tuesday, March 20, 2018

Check out the installation of the ARB 47L Fridge on our Alu-Cab Tilt Slide

After a lot of work we are ready to wire up and strap in our ARB 47L overland fridge to the newly installed alu-cab tilting fridge slide.  Couldn't be more excited to get this project wrapped up and ready for action.


Here is the stuff we used for the install
This is the wire we used and will be using for most of our circuits.

These are the connectors we used to hook up to the ARB socket.

These ring connectors are similar to the ones I bought locally for wiring to the fuse block.

Here is the ARB socket you can see more on this in other vids too.

Sunday, March 11, 2018

Alu-Cab Tilting Fridge Slide Install

We got the alu-cab fridge slide installed and it is awesome.  Next we'll wire up the fridge, strap it down, and load it up with some cold beer!


Here are the materials we used to install the slide.

Here are the awesome T-Nuts we used

and the Stainless Screws and washers similar to those that came with the slide but the length and number I needed

Tuesday, February 13, 2018

How to pick a 100 series Land Cruiser in the US?

I have been asked this question a bunch of times so here is the quick and dirty on how to pick a 100 series.

Slee off road has one of the best write ups of year and model differences (LC vs Lexus LX470)
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbieUZJ100.htm

If you haven't already check out the 100 series forum on ih8mud it's a huge resource for 100 owners

https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/100-series-cruisers.26/

I talk about a few reasons on this vid but don't go very deep into it.

Here are the main things to consider in my opinion.
2000 Front differential was changed from a 2 pinion to a 4 pinion unit.  The 2 pinion was prone to breaking
2000+ have A-TRAC (Active Traction Control)   which is great but some early models have a rear locker
2003 gets more Horsepower
2006 and 07 for the land cruiser get AHC is an option

The lexus is nicer inside, there are way more of them in the US so easier to find, but some mods are designed for the cruiser and not perfect on the LX,  Most importantly all 98+ LXs have AHC

Some people like AHC but it can be a maintenance pain in the ass and if you want to upgrade you'll need to get rid of it.  Not impossible but something to consider. 

RUST - You will find some that are ate up and they can require a lot of maintenance and tough to work on. 

I would say take the first one you find with little to no rust underneath. No AHC is a big plus and stick to a 2000+ to get ATRAC and the beefier axle. 2003-2005 Land Cruisers are going to be the best overal for technical features so if you can find one with little to no rust jump on it.

Wednesday, January 31, 2018

Why no DC-DC charger and how did I pick the batteries?

Here's a question I got on YouTube.

Question:
 "Great set up.  I'm wondering your battery selection, and I guess it all depends on what you run for gear.  I am planning on a 31M for the aux and a 34m For the starter.  I don't think the alternator can fully charge the 31M, so likely a dc-dc charger to toss in.  I love the RedArc products I see.  Just that if I'm doing dual batteries, i want one for quick starting, and another for the slow drain...Great video."


I just kept typing and here was my response.  I thought this might help someone running into the same questions.

Answer:

Thanks man!

My selection of batteries was purely due to the battery trays and space available.  I went with the slee off-road trays since they were very nice and I didn't want to fabricate.  That said the start is a 31 and the aux is a 75/86.  Ideally these would be the other way around since the 31 has twice the amp hours. I intend to eventually wire them the other way.  

As for charging and dc-dc vs. a relay here is what I believe and trust me this could be debated by someone more knowledgeable than I.  

Many people especially in Australia use dc-dc chargers for a couple reasons.  

First, since many alternators on newer vehicles are "smart" they do not provide sufficient voltage to fully charge an AGM battery.  The alternator on my land cruiser consistently puts out 14.1-14.3v which I thought would be pretty good, below 14v would not be so good.  

Second big reason, even though having the higher voltage can get you fully charged or close to it, for the best battery life when frequently draining your batteries low you need to have a phased charge profile.  DC-DC chargers generally have the phases required by a battery like an AGM but some only provide higher voltage.  

Back when I planned the system the only DC-DC charger available in the US was the CTEK and it did not enable you to link the batteries in an emergency start situation or in high amp draw situations where having linked batteries can be helpful, like winching. Not sure how much I care since I don't have a winch yet but at the time it seemed important.  I also noticed many people operate with Tmax, IBS, national luna, or blue sea setups that are all simple relays with no problem.  I also considered the additional cost of the dc-dc chargers and some are a pretty significant investment. I also intend to add solar so this was part of the consideration.

I think if you are going to be on expedition with no shore power for many many days, frequently completely draining the battery, and potentially have a lower voltage alternator then a dc-dc charger is going to be preferred, or a must, but if your travel is more like a couple days here and there and your alternator is higher voltage (not smart) and you can always top off / condition your batteries with a good ac-dc charger and be fine. I am looking at adding an on-board Powermainia dual bank agm ac-dc charger so in campsites with power or when home I can plug in the cruiser and keep the batteries strong.  

Here's the charger:
Ultimately a group 31 battery with the load of my planned accessories, the cruiser's decent alternator output, a solor panel, occasional ac-dc charging and the fact that I don't think I will be completely draining the battery often all lead to me thinking the dc-dc charger is not 100% necessary. These opinions are based on research but I will be putting my system to the test this summer. I realize that at some point I may want to shift to dc-dc charging. I have heard from others that the REDARC products are now available in the USA so I will be checking those out at some point. Man that was longer than I though but it is a great question and I hope this helps. I am going to post this over on my bradyadventures.com blog since I know many people have these questions and it is not at all straight forward. Let me know if this makes sense and if you have any follow up questions or if you disagree. Thanks Chuck.

Saturday, January 27, 2018

The Land Cruiser's Overland Blue Sea Auxiliary Power Distribution is in!

The Land Cruiser's auxiliary battery is now ready to distribute that power to some cool overland gear.  We got the blue sea systems 285 series circuit breaker and fuse block wired up and ready for our next big project.

Check out the video below and here are links to the products we installed in the video:
   

Dual Battery Auxiliary Wire Run

This is our first time using the hydraulic crimper. We chose the wire route, crimped the main eyelets, and ran the 2 gauge auxiliary wire to the rear.  We considered running the wire on the frame rail outside the vehicle but in the end went with running the wire along the door sills.  We chose 2 gauge wire since it was more than enough to provide power to the 100 gauge blue sea fuse block as well as another major electrical load, like an inverter, air pump, etc.


Here are links to the crimper, wire (although we got 30' not 100') and eyelets we used in the video.
   

Thursday, January 25, 2018

Check out the National Luna Dual Battery Monitor Install

In this video we install the National Luna dual battery monitor. Not much to the installation.  You need to add a fuse to each positive lead and the supplied wire only got us to one battery but not a big deal.

I really love this thing, it has a certain 80's car gadget charm with the old skool LEDs.

We choose this one because it was one of very few available in the US and many that are available are number read outs that can be hard to read at a glance.  The LEDs and colors make it easy to know where you stand.  This particular one can be used with any dual battery system.  Many nicer monitors are also controllers and can only be used with the full system that they were intended for.

Saturday, January 20, 2018

Blue Sea ML-ACR in cab switch install in the Land Cruiser 100 Series

We installed the ml-acr in cab switch and ran the wires through the dash and firewall to the future location of the relay.  It was a fairly simple process.  We needed to remove the panel under the steering wheel, the head unit, and the glove box to route the wire.  We also needed to hone out our chosen switch location in the switch blank by the mirror controls.  This actually went much smoother than expected.

The switch comes with the ml-acr below and we think it is one of the best options for an overland dual battery system.

Land Cruiser 100 Series DIY Tailgate Cover

The Toyota Land Cruisers tailgate is a signature item that every Land Cruiser owner loves.  There is one problem, when deciding on materials for the tailgate Toyota failed miserably.  The tailgate cover on the 100 series is made of a fiber cardboard type backing with carpet on top.  The tailgate cover pretty nasty over the years and creating something that can withstand the punishment of overlanding is a great DIY project.   Mine was very nasty and the commercially available ones like TrekBoxx are $200+.  WIth a little bit of elbow grease and very little money you can build your own.

This thing only cost less than $50 in materials maybe a little more with the monstaliner but I had plenty of extra from the drawer build. The only thing I would change is would have hunted down some 1/2" birch so it would have had a more uniform finish.

Check out our video on our DIY Tailgate cover.

The only hard to find item are the well nuts and you can find the exact ones we used at the following link.

Punching a hole in the Land Cruisers Firewall

We spent a fair amount of time behind the dash trying to make sure we weren't going to drill through anything and got some great pointers on ih8mud.com.  Just before we got started we realized that the grommet and drill bit we intended for the job were not going to be sufficient.  We ordered up a daystar firewall boot and a neiko drill bit and once those were in we were ready for action.
Here are the items we got for the job.

Here is a little video of the work and in our next post we will be running all our wires through the dash and up through the firewall as we make progress on our 100 series land cruisers overland expedition dual battery system.

Thanks

Slee Off-Road Battery Trays for the Land Cruiser Dual Battery System

If you have a 100 series land cruiser there is really only one off the shelf option in the US for easily installing a second battery.  Slee Off-Road makes and auxiliary tray as well as an upgrade tray for the primary battery.  The aux tray is unique in that you can mount a single or dual arb air compressor along side the battery.  There is one downfall of the Slee aux tray and that is the fact the space for the battery itself is quit small only allowing for a 75/86 group battery.  We hope to overcome this challenge in the future by wiring the 31 group in the stock start position as the aux and utilizing the aux for starting.  This will give us double the capacity for accessories when the vehicle is off.

Slee also has battery trays for other vehicles, a whole bunch of off road accessories, and if you are in or near Colorado they will do the work for you.

In these two videos we get both of these trays installed and the batteries in the vehicle.

Keep and eye out for the upcoming videos and posts where we wire everything up and get ready for our future overland projects.

Please feel free to ask us any questions that you might have and thanks for stopping by.

Wednesday, January 3, 2018

The Dual Battery Gear is In!

Hey everyone all the dual battery gear is in and I wanted to give you an overview and links to all the products we are using. We will be posting videos twice a week on the progress and updating the blog as well. Check out this video giving you an overview of the gear we have so far. I also describe and provide links for most of the gear below. Please send us any questions via email or feel free to leave comments in our videos and thanks for stopping by.

Blue Sea ML-ACR is the heart of the system and controls whether the batteries are connected while running and disconnected when off. It also offers manual controls on the unit and via an in cab switch. Below are two videos that show the switch and explain why we selected it over other options.




We chose Odyssey batteries are here is a video of us receiving the batteries and how we chose odysseys over the other options. We got the batteries from batterymart.com


We mounted the batteries using slee offroad battery trays here is the unboxing video for those.



The wire between the batteries and the ML-ACR and between the auxiliary battery and the accessory fuse block must be fused by the batteries. We decided to use blue sea 5187 and 5190 terminal fuse blocks for this purpose. Blue Sea Fuse 5187 and 5191. We are using 300 amp fuses between the batteries and 1/0 gauge wire and a 200 amp fuse to the accessory fuse block with 2 gauge wire.



We selected these mil spec terminals and covers for the main connections to the auxiliary battery.



From the auxiliary battery we used 2 gauge wire to a Blue Sea 12 Circuit Fuse Block protected by a 120 amp blue sea 187 breaker.


We used a number of different sizes of Seltrem Marine Tinned Eyelets for the various wire sizes and terminal connection sizes. Most of these will require a hydraulic crimper we chose an inexpensive one that should do the job.



We chose this firewall boot and will be running the 2 gauge wire, wiring to the battery monitor, and wiring to the ml-acr in cab switch. We picked up an assortment of 6 gauge wire for the ml-acr switch and this should be good for future switching projects.